kidill paris fashion week 2024 — © Anna Miki

Hiroaki Sueyasu's KIDILL presented his 2025 Spring/Summer collection at chapelle expiatoire on June 18, the first day of Paris Fashion Week. This collection, inspired by the unique synergy between Hiroaki Sueyasu and the LA-based punk duo Ho99o9, marks a significant evolution in KIDILL’s aesthetic journey.

The Concept: A Unique Encounter

The collaboration between KIDILL’s designer Hiroaki Sueyasu and Ho99o9, comprising theOGM (BlueFace) and Yeti Bones (Eaddy), has been pivotal in shaping the collection. The band that is headquartered in LA originated from New Jersey, and they have been a great source of inspiration to Sueyasu due to the diverse and eclectic influence they bring to his work. Their dialogue over the past few years has been a crucible of creativity, culminating in the innovative pieces seen in this collection.

“I was impressed by the essence and attitude that underlie all their styles. This spontaneous empathy brought unprecedented imagination to KIDILL,” says Sueyasu. This marks the first time KIDILL has drawn inspiration directly from the style codes of specific individuals, reflecting a deep, personal connection and mutual respect.

The Influence of Japanese Culture

Sueyasu’s Japanese roots, particularly his experiences in the vibrant 90s Uraharajuku scene, significantly inform his design philosophy. This era, marked by a seamless blend of music, fashion, and diverse subcultures, shaped his approach to fashion.

“I was influenced by the fashion style where the individual lives,” Sueyasu reflects. This influence is evident in the collection’s eclectic mix, from iconic wedding dresses that transcend traditional boundaries to unique DIY live costumes and casual wear references, all interwoven with Ho99o9’s distinct graphics and embroidery.

Sueyasu also finds a “Tokyo essence” in Ho99o9’s appearance and spirituality. This connection with Tokyo’s streets, especially the Lolita fashion elements, breathes life into the collection. The meticulous incorporation of zippers, padlocks, sleeveless denim vests, and symbolic lace usage exemplifies this blend of cultures.

A Nod to Punk Culture

At the core of KIDILL’s ethos is punk culture. “For the past 10 years, the brand's mainstay has been punk culture, and the idea of creating a new punk style based on one's own interpretation of punk,” says Sueyasu. This collection continues that tradition, pushing the boundaries of punk aesthetics while staying true to its roots. Items like reconstructed vintage metal band T-shirts, bandolier bags with a worn texture, sleeveless tailored jackets, and bondage pants crafted by tailors illustrate the collection’s dedication to punk’s raw, unfiltered spirit.

The intricate patchwork, combination, and arrangement seen in many pieces reflect the hardcore punk culture’s tradition of sewing patches from favorite bands. This aesthetic, particularly prominent in Tokyo, symbolizes personal expression and individual taste within the punk community.

The Message: Evolution and Possibility

The compilation dwells on the growth that takes one to the next status identified by the “999” in Ho99o9. This angel number, being opposite to demonic 666, represents endless potential and advanced magic like Sueyasu’s thought and collection mindset. More significantly, “PROTECT MY BASIC” is a strong and concise statement which emphasizes on the collection’s core message of staying true to fundamental values while exploring new creative horizons.

KIDILL’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a testament to the power of cultural fusion and the enduring spirit of punk.Hiroaki Sueyasu drew inspiration from his Japanese roots together with Ho99o9 distinctive touch to come up with a unique collection that honors what has been and sets a new pace in fashion. Yet again, Paris Fashion Week (which boasts of an international audience) has emerged as a suitable place where ground-breaking innovations like this one are always seen.