From BAPE to HUMAN MADE - The Legacy of Japanese Fashion Icon NIGO

NIGO for Boon Magazine 2005│picture by Hiroshi Nomura

Tomoaki Nagao, better known by the world as NIGO, is a Japanese fashion designer, entrepreneur, and outright icon whose influence has transcended the fashion industry and impacted street culture on a global scale.

NIGO rose to prominence in the 1990s as the founder of the legendary streetwear brand A Bathing Ape (BAPE). His aesthetic blends Japanese and Western cultural elements, making him a pioneer in the world of streetwear through a career that has been equally marked by innovation and controversy. We explore NIGO’s background, his first moves towards becoming Japan’s number one trendsetter, collaborations, and his ventures outside of the fashion industry.

In this article

• Early Life

• The Founding of A Bathing Ape (BAPE)

• Stepping Down from BAPE

• The Nike Controversy

• Launch of HUMAN MADE

• Creative Direction

• Teriyaki Boyz

• Relation with Pharrell

• Art Collection

• NIGO’s Enduring Legacy

NIGO in BAPE magazine 2005

Early Life

NIGO’s early years in Maebashi (his hometown) were marked by a deep fascination with American culture, particularly music, movies, and fashion. Growing up, he was drawn to the rebellious spirit of rock ‘n’ roll and the emerging hip-hop scene, which would later become essential in shaping his design ethos. His parents were not involved in fashion or the arts, but they encouraged his creative pursuits, fostering an environment where his passion for style could flourish.

NIGO’s interest in fashion became more formalized when he enrolled at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, one of Japan’s most prestigious fashion institutions. It was here that NIGO’s path began to crystallize. He studied fashion editing and styling, which provided him with a comprehensive understanding of the industry from both a creative and commercial standpoint.

His time at Bunka also introduced him to like-minded individuals, including Jun Takahashi, who would go on to establish the influential streetwear brand UNDERCOVER. This connection with Takahashi and the broader Harajuku scene exposed NIGO to a world of avant-garde fashion and underground culture, laying the groundwork for his future endeavors. Together with Jun Takahashi, he wrote a column for Popeye Magazine called Last Orgy 2, after getting the torch passed down from Hiroshi Fujiwara, who started the original Last Orgy column.

During this period, NIGO also began to delve deeply into the world of hip-hop, which was gaining traction in Japan. This influence would later manifest in the streetwear aesthetics that NIGO became famous for, blending elements of hip-hop style with Japanese sensibilities.

NIGO eventually ended up working as an assistant for musician and designer Hiroshi Fujiwara. It’s here, functioning as number two to Japan’s leading streetwear designer Fujiwara, that NIGO (which translates to number two) earned his nickname.

Shawn Stussy (left), Hiroshi Fujiwara (mid) and Nigo (right)

The Founding of A Bathing Ape (BAPE)

In 1993, NIGO took a bold step by founding A Bathing Ape, a brand that would go on to define an era of streetwear fashion. The name itself is a reference to the Japanese idiom “a bathing ape in lukewarm water,” which refers to the complacency of the younger generation in Japan. Together with Jun Takahashi, Nigo opens the NOWHERE store, where both BAPE and Takahashi’s brand UNDERCOVER are first sold.

NIGO operated BAPE out of the small NOWHERE storefront in the Harajuku district of Tokyo, a neighborhood famous for its wide-ranging mix of fashion, art, and youth culture. Harajuku was a melting pot of creativity, where avant-garde styles and bold fashion statements were the norm.

In the early 1990s, Japan was on the cutting edge of youth culture, with trends often originating in Tokyo’s fashion districts Ura-Harajuku and Shibuya, before spreading to the rest of the city, Japan, and eventually, the world. NIGO leveraged this cultural dynamism to build hype around BAPE. One of his key techniques was to cultivate an aura of mystery and intrigue around the brand through word-of-mouth, underground marketing and strategic product endorsements.

From the outset, NIGO understood the power of exclusivity. BAPE’s sales and marketing strategy took a unique approach by deliberately limiting the availability of BAPE products, a strategy that’s all too common with streetwear brands today. He produced only small quantities of each item, often fewer than 50 pieces per design, and made them available exclusively in the NOWHERE Harajuku store.

The idea that BAPE items were hard to come by made them highly coveted among Tokyo’s fashion-forward youth. People who were able to get their hands on BAPE clothing became part of an exclusive club, and this sense of belonging fueled the brand’s growth.

NIGO for Boon Magazine 2005│picture by Hiroshi Nomura

As BAPE’s reputation grew, NIGO began to explore collaborations as a way to further elevate the brand and reach new audiences. His collaborations were carefully chosen and executed, often involving partners from outside the traditional fashion world.

One of the earliest and most significant collaborations was with Pepsi in 2001. BAPE designed a limited edition series of Pepsi cans featuring the brand’s signature camo pattern. This collaboration was a big move for the brand, as it brought BAPE into the mainstream consciousness while maintaining the brand’s underground appeal. The cans became collectible items, and the collaboration helped to solidify BAPE’s status as a cultural phenomenon.

Another key collaboration was with Adidas, which resulted in the creation of the BAPE x Adidas Super Ape Star sneakers. Released in 2003, these sneakers were a fusion of BAPE’s streetwear aesthetic with Adidas’s classic design, and they quickly became a must-have item for sneakerheads and fashion enthusiasts.

2001 BAPE x Pepsi

By the early 2000s, BAPE had achieved cult status in Japan, and NIGO began to set his sights on the global market. The brand’s first international store opened in New York City in 2004, in the SoHo district on 91 Greene Street, which was already one of New York's hubs for fashion. The New York store was a significant milestone for BAPE, as it marked the brand’s official entry into the American market.

The interior featured a futuristic design with glass floors, minimalist displays, and exclusive products that were only available in that location. In 2021 BAPE moved out, and Eric Emanuel housed in. Today BAPE has two stores in New York, one in SoHo and one on Madison Avenue.

With his deep network in Japan’s fashion and hip hop scene, NIGO understood the power of celebrity endorsements and leveraged his connections within the music industry to gain visibility for BAPE. High-profile artists like Pharrell Williams, and Kanye West were spotted wearing BAPE, which catapulted the brand into the global spotlight. Hell even Biggie was wearing BAPE. Being a trendsetter by trade, NIGO had cultivated relationships within the music industry, understanding that aligning BAPE with influential figures would elevate the brand’s status.

The Notorious B.I.G. as one of the first international rappers wearing BAPE

Stepping Down From BAPE

As BAPE expanded globally, there was a fine line between maintaining the brand’s exclusivity and overextending its reach.

By the late 2000s, BAPE had evolved from a small, exclusive brand in Tokyo’s Harajuku district into a global streetwear phenomenon. The brand was known for its limited-edition releases, bold designs, and regular collaborations with artists like Pharrell and Kanye.

The brand’s rapid growth required scaling up production, managing international operations, and dealing with the complexities of a global market. The brand’s exclusivity, which was once its greatest strength, started to create tension as it became harder to maintain that sense of scarcity on a larger scale.

At the same time, the pressures of sustaining BAPE’s unique brand identity while meeting the growing demand became increasingly difficult to manage. Slowly, the hype around BAPE faded.

In 2011, after years of navigating these challenges, NIGO decided to sell a majority stake in BAPE to I.T Group, a Hong Kong-based fashion conglomerate. This decision was driven by several factors:

• Financial strain - Despite BAPE’s global popularity, the brand faced financial difficulties, partly due to its high production costs and the complexities of maintaining a global presence.

• Operational Challenges - Managing a global brand was far removed from the creative work that NIGO had initially loved. The day-to-day operations and the business side of fashion were increasingly at odds with his creative interests.

• Desire for Creative Freedom - NIGO is first and foremost a creator. The success of BAPE had become a double-edged sword. As the brand grew, NIGO found himself increasingly distanced from the creative process that had originally inspired him.

By 2013, NIGO’s role within BAPE had diminished. The sale to I.T Group marked a significant transition, and although NIGO remained involved with BAPE for a time after the sale, his creative and operational control had been significantly reduced. In April 2013, NIGO officially stepped down as CEO of BAPE, severing his formal ties with the brand he had created two decades earlier.

NIGO in BAPE magazine 2005

The Nike Controversy

One of the most iconic products in BAPE’s lineup was the BAPE STA sneaker, which gained massive popularity for its striking resemblance to Nike’s Air Force 1. The BAPE STA featured a star logo on the side, replacing Nike’s swoosh, but the overall design, silhouette, and even the sole pattern were unmistakably similar to Nike’s legendary sneaker. This homage to the Air Force 1 became a hit.

However, Nike did not view the BAPE STA as a mere homage. As BAPE grew in prominence in the U.S. market, Nike began to see the similarities as a direct threat to its intellectual property.

There were multiple attempts to reach a consensus without taking the battle to court. From 2009 onwards, Bape slightly altered the BAPE STA, steering clear from a clash with the fashion giant.

However, in 2021 BAPE re-introduced the original BAPE STA, years after NIGO’s departure. This prompted Nike to take legal action, after which the brand filed a lawsuit in 2023.

The legal battle ended in April 2024, when BAPE agreed to three of its most popular models, the BAPE STA Mid, Court STA and Court STA High. They also agreed to alter the designs of the BAPE STA and Sk8 STA.

Comparison between Bape and Nike's shoes│image via United States District Court

Launch of HUMAN MADE

Even before stepping down from BAPE, NIGO had already begun laying the groundwork for his next major project — HUMAN MADE. Launched in 2010, HUMAN MADE was conceived as a departure from the bold, streetwear-centric designs of BAPE, instead embracing a more mature and refined aesthetic. The brand reflects NIGO’s deep appreciation for vintage Americana, particularly the workwear and casual styles of the 1950s and 1960s, combined with Japanese craftsmanship and attention to detail.

HUMAN MADE represents a shift in NIGO’s design philosophy, focusing on the artisanal and the authentic. Unlike BAPE, which thrived on the energy of youth culture and the immediacy of urban trends, HUMAN MADE is characterized by its nostalgic approach to fashion. The brand’s tagline, “Gears for futuristic teenagers,” encapsulates this blend of past and future — creating clothing that is timeless, yet forward-thinking.

The brand’s aesthetic is rooted in NIGO’s personal collection of vintage clothing and artifacts, which he meticulously curates and often uses as direct inspiration for his designs. This approach has allowed HUMAN MADE to carve out a distinct niche in the fashion world, appealing to those who appreciate the intersection of history and innovation. The brand’s offerings include everything from denim jackets and military-inspired outerwear to graphic tees and accessories, all imbued with a sense of authenticity.

By the time of launching HUMAN MADE, NIGO was already perceived as a superstar designer, so it didn’t take much for the brand to grow into a global sensation. Aside from relying on its founder’s reputation, HUMAN MADE has engaged in numerous high-profile collaborations that have significantly boosted its profile.

NIGO’s close relationship with Pharrell shows itself through a collaboration between Pharrell, Adidas, and HUMAN MADE, resulting in the HUMAN MADE adidas Solar Hu Glide in 2019. The brand has also seen endorsements from celebrities such as Lil Uzi Vert, who is often spotted wearing HUMAN MADE.

courtesy of HUMAN MADE

Creative Direction

Uniqlo

In 2013, the same year he stepped down from BAPE, NIGO took on the role of Creative Director for Uniqlo UT, the T-shirt line of the global fast-fashion retailer Uniqlo. This role represented a new challenge for NIGO: how to bring his streetwear sensibilities and design expertise to a mass-market audience without compromising on creativity.

Uniqlo UT was already a well-established line within Uniqlo, known for its wide range of graphic tees that often featured collaborations with artists, designers, and cultural icons. Under NIGO’s direction, however, the line experienced a significant transformation. He introduced a series of high-profile collaborations that bridged the gap between high fashion and everyday wear, making streetwear accessible to a broader demographic.

One of the most notable collaborations under NIGO’s direction at Uniqlo UT was with contemporary artist KAWS. The KAWS x Uniqlo UT collections became instant hits, selling out quickly and attracting a wide range of consumers—from dedicated art collectors to casual shoppers. These collaborations were characterized by their playful yet sophisticated designs, often featuring KAWS’ signature “Companion” character and other iconic motifs.

Through his work at Uniqlo UT, NIGO demonstrated his ability to balance creativity with commercial appeal, a skill that had been honed during his years at BAPE. His approach to the line was to infuse it with a sense of deep cultural relevance, making it more than just a collection of graphic tees. This vision helped elevate Uniqlo UT from a simple product line to a cultural phenomenon, and it solidified NIGO’s reputation as a master of collaboration and a visionary in the fashion industry.

Uniqlo x KAWS│courtesy of Uniqlo

Kenzo

In September 2021, NIGO was appointed as the Artistic Director of Kenzo, a major milestone in his illustrious career. This role marked NIGO’s return to high fashion after years of dominating the streetwear scene. At Kenzo, NIGO brought his unique blend of streetwear sensibilities and deep respect for cultural heritage to a storied luxury fashion house.

Kenzo, founded by Kenzo Takada in 1970, is known for its vibrant prints and bold, multicultural designs. NIGO’s appointment was seen as a bridge between the brand’s rich history and the contemporary fashion landscape. His first collection for Kenzo debuted in January 2022 during Paris Fashion Week, and it was widely anticipated as a fusion of the brand’s traditional aesthetic with NIGO’s forward-thinking approach.

One of NIGO’s key contributions to Kenzo has been his ability to infuse streetwear culture into the luxury brand without compromising its identity.

Teriyaki Boyz

In addition to his contributions to fashion, NIGO has also made his mark in the music industry as a member of the Japanese hip-hop group Teriyaki Boyz. Formed in 2005, the group was a collaboration between NIGO and some of Japan’s top rappers, including Ilmari from Rip Slyme, Ryo-Z, Verbal, and Wise.

NIGO’s role in the group was multifaceted. While he did not perform as a rapper, he was instrumental in shaping the group’s image and sound. As a producer and creative force behind the scenes, NIGO used his extensive network and understanding of global trends to propel the group to success. His connections with influential figures in the music industry, such as Pharrell Williams and Kanye West, enabled the Teriyaki Boyz to collaborate with some of the biggest names in hip-hop.

Beyond their music, the Teriyaki Boyz were also a reflection of NIGO’s fashion sensibilities. The group’s visual identity was closely linked to BAPE, with members often wearing the brand’s iconic designs in music videos and public appearances. This synergy between music and fashion reinforced BAPE’s global appeal but also helped to define the Teriyaki Boyz’s distinctive style.

NIGO continued to be connected to the group through the height of their popularity, particularly during the mid-to-late 2000s. However, there isn’t a specific public record of NIGO officially leaving the group, as his role was more behind-the-scenes as a producer and creative force rather than as a performing member.

Over time, as his focus shifted more towards his ventures in fashion, particularly with HUMAN MADE and other collaborations, his active involvement with Teriyaki Boyz naturally diminished.

Relation with Pharrell

NIGO and Pharrell Williams share a deep creative synergy that has led to several successful ventures spanning fashion, music, and culture. Their partnership began in the early 2000s, driven by a mutual respect and a shared vision of blending fashion and music.

Pharrell was supporting BAPE from its early days, having a great hand in growing the the brand’s global appeal and even assisting the overseas expansion. Later on, NIGO and Pharrell’s paths would cross many more times.

One of their most prominent collaborations is the launch of Billionaire Boys Club (BBC) and Ice Cream in 2003. These brands were groundbreaking, merging streetwear with high-end fashion. BBC and Ice Cream quickly gained popularity, thanks in part to their bold designs, innovative marketing, and endorsements from celebrities like Jay-Z and Kanye West.

The brands were characterized by playful and imaginative designs, often featuring motifs like diamonds, dollar signs, and other elements associated with luxury and wealth, but presented in a way that was accessible to a younger, fashion-forward audience. This fusion of luxury and streetwear helped pave the way for the current dominance of streetwear in high fashion.

The partnership between Pharrell and NIGO extended to collaborative product lines with other brands, including a highly successful line with Adidas, where they brought their combined aesthetics to classic sneaker silhouettes.

NIGO and Pharrell for Billionaires Boys Club in 2007

Art Collection

As a renowned art collector, NIGO has amassed an impressive collection that reflects his eclectic tastes and his connections within the contemporary art world. His collection includes works by some of the most influential artists of our time, such as KAWS, Futura, Takashi Murakami, and Hajime Sorayama.

NIGO’s extensive art collection focuses on contemporary pop and street art, genres that parallel the cultural movements he has championed throughout his career. His collection features several iconic works, including original pieces by KAWS, whose distinctive characters and bold lines are a perfect match for NIGO’s own design ethos. The relationship between NIGO and KAWS extends beyond collector and artist; they have collaborated on numerous projects, blending their creative visions in both art and fashion.

In addition to his personal collection, NIGO has been involved in various exhibitions and auctions, where his curated selections have garnered significant attention. His curated auctions, like the 2014 Sotheby’s auction “NIGO Only Lives Twice,” highlighted his specific taste in pop culture’s most prominent artists.

KAWS and NIGO│courtesy of KAWS

NIGO’s Enduring Legacy

 NIGO’s journey from the founder of BAPE to a global fashion icon showcases to his visionary approach to design, culture, and business. He redefined streetwear, blending Japanese and Western influences to create a brand that became a cultural phenomenon. His ability to innovate and adapt, whether through growing BAPE as a global fashion influence, launching HUMAN MADE, collaborating with Pharrell Williams, or taking on the role of Creative Director at both Uniqlo and Kenzo, demonstrates his versatility and enduring influence in the fashion world.

At every stage of his career, NIGO has successfully navigated the challenges of the fashion industry while staying true to his creative roots. From the streets of Harajuku to the runways of Paris, his work has consistently pushed boundaries, blurring the lines between high fashion and streetwear, and influencing countless designers and brands that followed in his footsteps.

Only a handful of Japanese designers have been able have a lasting influence on the global fashion industry, placing Japan on the map as a creative and innovate fashion powerhouse. Where Yamamoto, Miyake, and Kawakubo introduced Japan’s versatility and craftsmanship to the world of high fashion, NIGO was busy changing the world’s perception of Japan as a streetwear stronghold.

Today, NIGO is still making waves, as he ventures into the hospitality industry with the launch of Not a Hotel, a unique concept that blends luxury accommodation with personal expression.

A man with a career as expansive as his network, NIGO has been a driving force in Japan’s cultural landscape since the early 90s. His story doesn’t conclude with BAPE, HUMAN MADE, or any of his side ventures. NIGO’s journey continues to evolve, proving that he is not just a designer or entrepreneur, but an artist and global trendsetter destined to make a lasting impact across multiple creative fields.

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