Written by Gill Princen

Tokyo-based photographer Yulia Skogoreva excels at capturing Japan’s traditional crafts and arts in her distinctive, raw style. Having worked as an interpreter for Butoh dancers, Yulia’s fascination for this unique art expression triggered the start of her photography career and the development of her creative vision.

Passionate about exploring new visual narratives through conceptual ideas and extensive research, Yulia eagerly seized the opportunity to document the Shishi Odori ritual in her photo series Midsummer chills in Tono. The result is a unique photo series that guides viewers through the various facets of the Shishi Odori ritual in the unique setting of the Tono Meguritoroge festival, revealing its hidden and intimate elements.

shishi odori ritual tono dance — by Yulia Skogoreva

What is Shishi Odori

Shishi Odori, or deer dance, is a folk ritual in which dancers wear intricate masks that are composites of animals like deer, lions, and dragons. This ancient performance art, which originated four centuries ago, has evolved from a hunters’ ritual honoring the spirits of animals into a profound expression of respect for all living beings, including human spirits.

Accompanied by the rhythmic beats of taiko drums and the melodic strains of flutes, the dancers perform at village festivals during the summer and fall. In Shishi Odori, the sacred beast often overpowers the human dancer, symbolizing a respectful acknowledgment of nature’s power. By integrating these traditions into modern cultural events, the Tono Meguritoroge festival aims to attract a broader audience and inspire new generations to engage with and carry on these practices.

shishi odori dance tono — Picture by Yulia Skogoreva

The connection with Tono

In the heart of Japan’s Tohoku region lies the city of Tono, a place where tradition and contemporary culture intertwine. The Tono Meguritoroge festival, exemplifies this unique blend, with the traditional Shishi Odori dance at its center. This ancient performance art, which originated four centuries ago, has evolved from a hunters’ ritual honoring the spirits of animals into a profound expression of respect for all living beings, including human spirits.

Tono, located in Iwate Prefecture, is renowned for its rich cultural heritage and scenic beauty. The Tono Meguritoroge festival has become a beacon of this heritage, offering an immersive experience that connects visitors with the region’s traditions. This festival goes beyond typical art events by inviting artists to delve deeply into the local culture and history, fostering a meaningful exchange between traditional and contemporary artistic expressions.

Pictures by Yulia Skogoreva

A Chat with Yulia Skogoreva

Yulia Skogoreva’s photo series “Midsummer Chills in Tono” immerses us in the rituals of Shishi Odori. We spoke with Yulia about her experiences shooting the series, interacting with locals, co-existing with ghosts, and more.

Of all folk performances and dance in Japan, what prompted you to head to Tono and make a photography series about Shishi Odori?

I've been capturing movement in photography for many years, and in recent years working a lot with Japanese traditional arts (calligraphy, sumo, noh-theater), so when I've heard about an opportunity to visit Tono and to photograph the traditional Shishi-odori I was very excited about it.

I was lucky to visit the region and participate in a new kind of event - Tono Meguritoroge. The name Meguritoroge comes from a local tradition called ムカイトロゲ (mukai toroge - a welcome lantern), in which special lanterns are used to guide the spirits of ancestors back to their homes.

Tono Meguritoroge is a festival that combines local history and the performing arts with modern culture and music. A group of young creatives reinterpreted the traditional 獅子踊り (shishi-odori - a lion dance) and spiced it up with some fusion cuisine and cool tunes.

How did you discover the traditions of Tono or the Tohoku region?

One of the inspirations was "The legends of Tono" by Yanagita Kunio. I feel that in Japan it is quite common to discuss some ghost stories, but Tono is THE place where locals have learned how to co-exist with the ghosts.

Being influenced by a rough climate and famine in the past, it has developed unique rituals and traditions and gifted numerous folk stories, well-known all over Japan. I got to meet some locals that shared their experiences. Their stories will sure give you chills! (perfect for Japanese summer)

Pictures by Yulia Skogoreva

How did the locals in Tono respond to your presence, and did those interactions influence your work?

I love to interact with locals when I travel around Japan, and my time in Tono was very inspiring. I got to meet an old master who creates the costumes for shishi-odori, and also dancers and musicians who are organizing the festival. Everyone was so kind and welcoming. Tono has definitely become one of the places I would like to return to. Last year I was there in August, but there is a big shishi-odori festival in the fall. I'm hoping to photograph it this year.

What role do you see photography playing in the preservation of traditional rituals like Shishi Odori?

I believe that a visual tool like photography is very powerful, it helps to support locals by spreading the knowledge about this kind of events, however the balance is difficult - if the place gets over touristy it can ruin the authenticity.

Was there a moment in particul that moved you during the performances or your time in Tono?

There was a traditional ceremony in a local shrine on the top of the mountain. And little kids joined the ceremony. I could observe their preparation - mothers were dressing their children in traditional outfits and fixing their hair. Somehow it felt like traveling in time. Very memorable moment.