Rakuten Tokyo Fashion Week SS 25 - Yokogao’s Highlights
courtesy of Hidesign
Written by Leon Sol Fuchs and Saung Taing Myouk
As Tokyo Fashion Week concluded, the city is definitely going to have a conversation about the Spring/Summer 2025 collections. The collections graced the runways from September 2nd to the 7th. Various Designers came out to showcase their creative vision, leaving their unique marks on Japan’s fashion capital. Below are the shows that captured our attention.
Hidesign
Coming from a team that consists of former workwear designers, Hidesign took a unique approach to their show, running it as a corporate-style PowerPoint presentation aimed to attract investors in their workwear, presenting technical explanations and steps of production. The models were dressed in crash dummy-like masks, standing completely still as the presenter went over the technical features of the garments. The warehouse location the show was set in really added to this industrial feel.
Shinyakozuka
Central Saint Martins alumni Shinyakozuka’s show took us through the worlds of European children’s books in a similar vein to works like “The Little Prince”, using props such as cartoonish swords and princess crowns to paint this world, following his brand concept of ‘picturesque scenery’. Appropriately, the models cast all shared a juvenile look. Grounding this fantasy world in reality was the unifying element of a prominent centre seam on the back of each garment, reminding the viewers that these clothes were all created outside of the fantasy world they are witnessing.
Mitsuru Okazaki
The two prominent elements utilised for this collection were the use of metal fasteners in place of side seams and the heavy use of buttons. The exploration of different techniques and silhouettes that can be born out of the classic tailoring pieces gives us a taste of the liking of Japanese for the deconstruction and reconstruction of all types of pieces. The opening and closing acts of this runway were memorable, with a model clothed in all white and all red, respectively, slowly walking along a silent runway holding a single balloon.
Wildfräulein
The literal meaning of a Wildfräulein is a wild, young woman. Fittingly, the first model to enter the stage was a young woman dressed in distressed fabric who rushed towards the centre of the stage in a feral manner. Continuing from here, the brand exhibited a range of looks inspired by medieval Europe as well as influences from India and Scandinavia. These influences were reflected in the choice of rugged, raw fabrics and ornamental jewelry. Seeing a brand pull inspiration from a time long past is refreshing compared to the mainly modern inspirations that influenced the rest of the week. Along with the entrancing soundtrack of a live band, this show was definitely one of the standouts of the week.
Seivson
The Taiwanese label was one of the surprises of the season for its maturity and polish. The frayed edges and the use of traditionally male cuts in women’ clothing have hints of a young Kawakubo. Kept in a simple greyscale colour scheme with silhouettes that, while very interesting, still fell firmly in the realm of clothing rather than art pieces, this show felt grounded yet outstanding, with the professionalism being clear throughout. The trench coats with extended sleeve proportions and suit jackets with frayed edges were the standout pieces to me. A highlight of the week.
Balmung
A pioneer in the more futuristic side of the now so popular Y2K aesthetic, Balmung’s show had a confident air, portraying how they have nothing to prove, showing off variations on the cuts, material, and fabric choices that they are already known for. While the clothes themselves may keep the aesthetic those familiar with the brand already know about, the set design stood out from many other shows. Set in a warehouse, models ascended up a circular scaffolding before they eventually dropped down onto airbags and walked off. The casting for this show was remarkable, perfectly matching the futuristic vision of the brand.
Yoshiokubo
Set in a movie theatre, this show began with a live ten-minute comedy sketch starring famous Japanese comedians that was then segwayed into the show utilising the same set, with some of the comedians eventually walking the runway with the models. As far as the clothes go, the influence of the Japanese avantgarde designers could definitely be felt throughout the garments, with standout pieces being one-piece dresses cut from nylon that were scrunched together by rubber cords, featured in both red and black. The whole show had a very light-hearted and charming feel, with comedians, models, and the designer engaging in jovial conversations.
Yueqi Qi
Her experience is vast despite her age; having graduated from Central Saint Martins, having worked at Chanel, and being an LVMH Prize semi-finalist in 2022, Yueqi has found an aesthetic and style that works for her. Out of all the shows this week, Yueqi Qi’s definitely felt most directed towards the youth. Leaning into a mix of athletic wear and Y2K elements with a large variety of colours, the brand tailored their styling, model choice, and overall presentation to cater to the early 2000’s aesthetic that is currently so popular among younger generations. The silhouettes were extended beyond the clothing through the use of ribbons in a smart and very nice way.
Heōs
Through the use of smoke, a large, empty stage, and ambient music, this show was able to create an ominous and brooding atmosphere. However, the actual clothing was in stark contrast to the dark aesthetic that was to be expected with the setting instead utilising a broad palette of colors. A highlight were the chokers featured on some looks that were created by shaping ribbons into balls and tying them together. For the final walk, all models walked simultaneously side by side, which had a very cinematic quality with the smoke surrounding them and the size of the hall.
Anrealage Homme
One of the most anticipated shows of the week, Anrealage Homme, recreated Punk/Bosozoku style patchwork using cutesy knitwear, giving the whole show a comfortable, made-by-grandma feel. In contrast to this was the unique hair styling, with largely exaggerated spikes, and the interesting choice to stick small, colourful plastic weaves to the models’ skin. The show ended with two eye-catching looks that were almost entirely covered in large pearls.
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