Nakano Guide - Tokyo's Hidden Otaku Heaven
Nakano
While Shinjuku may steal the spotlight with its skyscrapers, neon lights, and bustling Kabukicho, just a stone's throw away lies Nakano, one of Tokyo's best-kept secrets. Tucked away from the tourist crowds, Nakano features cozy traditional streets, a hidden otaku walhalla, and unlimited food options. In a city as vast as Tokyo, it's easy to overlook the hidden gems that lie just beyond the beaten path. But for those willing to venture off the tourist trail, Nakano offers a glimpse into Tokyo's soul.
This guide uncovers Nakano, exploring the best places to eat, where to get a good coffee, and Tokyo’s true otaku heaven.
In this Nakano Guide
Arriving in Nakano
Nakano Broadway
Nakano’s alleys
The food
The coffee
The bars
Sunplaza
How to get there
Nakano Alleys
Arriving in Nakano
Just one stop west of Shinjuku, you'll arrive at Nakano Station. Exit through the North exit, and you'll quickly realize you've left the trendy modernity of Shinjuku behind, finding yourself in traditional Tokyo. From here, you have a couple of options. The most obvious is to head straight into Nakano Sun Mall, a long indoor stretch of shops and eateries right in front of the station. Alternatively, you can explore the tiny alleys of Nakano to the right of the Sun Mall, where you'll be transported straight back to Showa-era Tokyo.
Nakano Sun Mall
Nakano Broadway
Once you’ve discovered the existence of Nakano Broadway, you might not feel the need to visit Akihabara ever again. At the end of Nakano Sun Mall, you’ll see the iconic bright red entrance of Nakano Broadway, a showa-era shopping mall.
Founded in 1966, Nakano Broadway was originally a luxury shopping complex. Today, only remnants of Broadway’s former glory days remain, resulting in an interesting mix of luxury watch shops, small restaurants, budget massage salons, and, above all, a thriving second-hand otaku paradise.
Mandarake, the renowned Japanese specialty store, first opened its doors in Nakano Broadway in 1987 and has since expanded its presence to dominate the complex. With over 30 specialized stores within the Broadway complex today, Mandarake caters to every niche of otaku culture imaginable.
Besides Mandarake, Nakano Broadway’s otaku scene is taken care of by dozens of independent retailers offering unique finds. For a detailed rundown of Mandarake’s Otaku shops, our Nakano Broadway Shop Guide is coming soon.
Entrance of Nakano Broadway
Nakano alleys
The true hidden gem of Nakano lies right next to its most famous tourist attraction. Just step away from Nakano Sun Mall or Nakano Broadway, head to the right, and you'll find yourself in a maze of lively alleys straight out of old Tokyo from the Showa era. Old lanterns, tangled cables overhead, antique billboards, and lots of cozy traditional eateries to explore.
Whether you're into street photography, looking for a tasty snack, or just want a good cup of coffee, you'll enjoy soaking up the nostalgic vibes here. It's a lovely escape from the busier parts of Tokyo, offering a glimpse into Japan's past with a modern twist.
The food of Nakano
Nakano’s food scene excels in authenticity, with many traditional eateries dating back to the 1970s. But there’s no lack of a fresh wind with a selection of new concept stores or fusion restaurants in the alleys of Nakano. While it’s always a good idea to venture off on your own and stumble on amazing food places, we provide you with our recommendations for a snack, lunch, or dinner in Nakano.
Uloko Nakano
One of the first places you’ll bump into when leaving Nakano station is Uloko Nakano, a traditional izakaya with a broad menu that focuses on seafood. You can find tons of sashimi, oysters and grilled fish items here that will perfectly compliment your ice cold drink. The prices here are mid-range, and can reach higher if you’re doubling down on grilled food.
Uloko Izakaya Nakano
（有）さらしな總本店北口店
You can only find this traditional udon and soba place on google maps under its Japanese name, which is usually a good sign. However once you’ve made it inside, the staff can provide you with an English menu. In（有）さらしな總本店北口店 you’ll find a variety of soba and udon dishes, a tenmori plate, fresh tempura, or tamagoyaki as a side.
（有）さらしな總本店北口店 Nakano
Ajiou Nakano Main Shop
Traditional Taiwanese kitchen in the heart of Nakano’s tiny alleys. Ajiou Nakano Main Shop is a no bullshit place with great authentic Taiwanese dishes for an even better price. You’ll have to whip out your translator or practice your Japanese, because there’s no English menu available. But once you've chosen between dishes like mapo tofu, happosai, or a ramen set and your food arrives, you'll be glad you made the effort.
Ajiou Nakano Main Shop Nakano
Bia Hoi Chop
If you fancy some authentic Japanese, Bia Hoi Chop is the place to be. The staff is very open to foreigners and the menu is filled with pictures to make your progress of choosing more smooth. On the menu itself you’ll find mostly pho variants like chicken, beef tendon or beef shabu pho, both available in a plain or tomato soup variant. If you’re not in the mood for soup, the place also offers cooked rice, spring rolls, banh mi, and other savory dishes.
Bai Hoi Chop Nakano
Chūka-soba Aoba Nakano
Chūka-soba Aoba Nakano is one of Nakano’s most reputable ramen spots and pioneer in double soup ramen. As found in most credible ramen shops, Chuka-soba Aoba has a simple straightforward menu with four types of noodle dishes including chuka soba and the client favorite tuskemen.
Chūka-soba Aoba Ramen Nakano
Fujimaru Ramen
Located in Nakano’s less commercial areas, this modern ramen spot doesn’t use any pork. The menu of Fujimaru Ramen features exclusively chicken broth, with options like salt tsukemen, soy sauce tsukemen, chicken salt ramen, and soy sauce ramen. All options are very affordable, with the base soup starting under ¥1000.
Fujimaru Ramen Nakano
Nakano Kagahiro
A small and cheap, but absolutely delicious izakaya tucked away in Nakano’s alleys. Nakano Kagahiro features an all-Japanese menu with dishes like offal stew, yakitori, fried oysters, and ham katsu. The staff speaks little to no Japanese but is very helpful. Drinks are as cheap as the food, so expect value for money at this local izakaya.
Nakano Kagahiro Izakaya
Maguro Mart
As the name suggests, Maguro Mart specializes in maguro, or bluefin tuna. Here you can basically order any part of the bluefin tuna, both on your plate and in your glass, as they serve maguro sake as well. Don’t know where to start? Go for the Maguro Mart platter, serving a set of assorted sashimi with detailed explanation on each cut.
Maguro Mart Nakano
Nondakure
Can’t have enough izakayas on the list. Nondakure is not the cheapest option, but it is good. As a favorite among locals, Nondakure stands out for its unique energetic izakaya and quality dishes like yakitori skewers and stir fried offal cabbage. Perfect for beginning your night, ending it, or doing both.
Nondakure Nakano
Sakana no shimonya Nakano store
Sakana no shimonya Nakano store is definitely among the biggest and most lively izakayas in the area. With rare outside seating, convenient corner location, and 300 yen highballs, this place is favored by both locals and tourists. It’s menu specializes in seafood, with options like sashimi, fried fish and even some meat options.
Sakana no shimonya Nakano store
Tototo
Tototo is by far the most modern restaurant on this list, run by the same people who opened Maguro Mart. An open industrial interior where you can enjoy Italian-style pizzas baked in a stone oven. But it wouldn't be Japan without adding a touch of Japanese flair. While you can go for a classic margherita, Tototo’s menu also includes fusion options like wasabi, mushrooms and pancetta pizza, or a pizza with pulled pork, prochetta and green chili salsa.
Tototo Nakano
The coffee of Nakano
Nakano’s maze of tiny alleys doesn’t fall short on coffee options. Below are our two favorite specialty coffee shops in Nakano, perfect for a delicious brew, whether you prefer to take out or sit in.
LOU
Nakano’s most hyped specialty coffee places. When paying a visit to Lou, be prepared to stand in line for a while, at least if you fancy a seat. This place feels like a modern urban jungle in the midst of Nakano’s showa era architecture. Once you make it inside, enjoy a quality brew while listening to jazz or city-pop classics.
Lou Coffee Nakano
Coffee Stand Ossaion
One up for tiny coffee stands, where passion for quality coffee always wins. Coffee Stand Ossaion can be found in one of Nakano’s more hidden alleys. While the coffee is more on the expensive side, you can expect specialty coffee like light roasted natural ethiopian beans on drip. As the name suggests, there’s very limited seating at this place, but nonetheless it’s an inviting place to have a chat outside.
Coffee Stand Ossaion Nakano
The Bars of Nakano
The alleys of Nakano are filled to the brim with small bars, so much it can be hard to navigate. Below you can find our three favorite bars in Nakano, each of them with a totally different vibe, to have a drink, karaoke moment, or even go part after a good dinner or a day of exploring the area.
Juke 80s Nakano
Choose the music, a good drink, and good vibes guaranteed. Juke 80s is a tiny basement bar tucked away in Nakano is the place to relive your nostalgia. Every table has a massive songbook. Write your request on the list, and the bartender will play it, including the music video on a massive screen projected on one of the walls. Other than the music you can order all of your favorite Japanese classic drinks, as well as some party snacks.
Juke 80s Music Bar Nakano
Purple Door
A hole in the wall bar with an iconic purple door. This place is as cozy as it is tiny. If you’re looking for a bar where you’ll be guaranteed to end up chatting in your best Japanese to strangers, Purple Door is the place to be.
Purple Door bar Nakano
Bar Smith (スミス)
An absolute strong hold in Nakano. Bar Smith (スミス) functions both as a bar, your occasional exhibition space and doesn’t shy away from throwing parties once in a while. Most nights they’ll invite local DJ’s during themed evenings. Result is you’ll be paying an entry charge, but it’s worth the experience.
Bar Smith (スミス) Nakano
Sunplaza
Nakano Sunplaza is the true heart of Nakano. This iconic building stood tall as a concert hall, event space, and hotel complex. Originally opening its doors in 1973, it ceased operations in 2023. Plans are underway to erect a 262-meter-tall skyscraper on the site, with completion expected by 2028. So if you’re planning to lay your eyes on this architectural marvel, now is the time, cause demolition is on its way.
Sunplaza Nakano
How to get to Nakano
Nakano Station is serviced by the JR Chuo and Sobu Lines and Tokyo Metro Tozai Line.
From Shinjuku Station:
JR Chuo Line to Nakano
From Tokyo Station
JR Chuo Line to Nakano
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