Who is Chitose Abe - Founder of sacai
Chitose Abe│© Shoji Uchida
Quick Summary
Name: Chitose Abe
Who: Founder and designer of sacai
When: Founded sacai in 1999
Born in: Gifu, Japan
Year of birth: 1965
Links & Resources
Introduction of Chitose Abe & sacai
The journey of Chitose Abe starts as a pattern maker at Comme Des Garçons, which she did for 8 years. After choosing a career shift as a fulltime mother, Abe found herself creatively restricted. With a need for a creative outlet and the support of her husband Junichi Abe, founder of kolor, Abe started a small side business called sacai in 1999. The name itself finds its origin in Abe’s maiden name, “Sakai”.
For over three years Abe ran sacai from her home in Nakameguro, Tokyo, making each garment by hand. Slowly but steadily Abe found her first buyer, Japanese clothing brand and distributor Beams. Buyers and customers who saw her clothing in the store, started asking who was behind the refreshing brand, to which they got redirected to Abe-san herself.
“I wasn’t planning long term. I was just being a mom and raising a child with the need to create something.” - Chitose Abe
In 2003, Chitose Abe opened the first sacai office in Daikanyama, Tokyo. Here she cemented the philosophy behind her brand, the ”fusion of garments or fabrics to create something truly new.”
The growth of sacai in the years that followed was slow but steady. In 2008 sacai’s growth moved into higher gear after the A/W 2009 fashion show in Tokyo, which saw sacai being picked up by retailers such as Barneys in New York and Colette in Paris.
From here the popularity of sacai skyrocketed. Celebrities like Rihanna were spotted wearing sacai, Chitose Abe collaborated with brands like Moncler, Nike, and Clarks, the brands opened its flagship store in Tokyo, and in 2011 sacai ran its first hyper successful runway.
Today Sacai and Chitose Abe both stand as a formidable force in contemporary fashion, known for its innovative fusion of garments and fabrics. Abe’s approach to deconstructing and reimagining traditional silhouettes has set new standards in the industry, influencing both high fashion and streetwear. The brand's collaborations with giants like Nike, Moncler, and Beats by Dre have further cemented its status as a cultural icon, blending the realms of sportswear, luxury, and technology.
sacai's unique aesthetic, characterized by its unexpected combinations and meticulous craftsmanship, has garnered a dedicated global following and consistently attracts high-profile celebrities. Chitose Abe herself is celebrated not just as a designer, but as a pioneering artist who continually challenges and redefines the boundaries of fashion, inspiring a new generation of designers and fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
Chitose Abe│© Shoji Uchida
10 Moments Defining Chitose Abe and sacai’s Legacy
We dive into ten pivotal moments that have defined the journey of sacai and its founder, Chitose Abe. Through these key events, we explore how Sacai transformed from a small side project into a globally celebrated brand, and how Chitose Abe emerged as a pioneering force in the fashion industry. Each moment highlights the innovative steps and groundbreaking decisions that have cemented Sacai's place in contemporary fashion, showcasing the unique vision and creative genius behind its success.
#1
Chitose Abe starts sacai as a side hustle - 1999
To be able to combine full time motherhood with the need for a creative outlet, Chitose Abe starts a small business named sacai, after her maiden name Sakai. The goal is to create handmade garments, without any larger or long term plans in mind.
#2
The first sacai location - 2003
Chitose Abe decides it’s time to take her brand outside the confines of her own home, and rents a former office space in Daikanyama, Tokyo, to officially run the business. With the new location came the vision that sacai radiates to this day: “The fusion of garments or fabrics to create something truly new.”
Daikanyama District
#3
sacai’s 3rd show in Tokyo - 2008
sacai held its third show in Tokyo, featuring an installation for the A/W 2009 collection. With sacai’s reputation steadily growing, the event was a tremendous success, leading to partnerships with prominent international retailers such as Barneys in New York and Colette in Paris.
#4
Designing for Moncler - 2010
In 2009, Chitose Abe was invited to design the MONCLER S line, a collection that redefines and reconstructs MONCLER's signature downwear with rich feminine details. This collaboration not only enhanced Chitose Abe's reputation as a designer but also introduced sacai to a broader audience, absolutely skyrocketing the brand.
#5
sacai’s first runway - 2011
In February 2011, sacai held its first runway show in Paris, having previously resisted participation until Chitose Abe felt the brand was fully prepared, recognizing there would be no turning back. sacai's debut runway was a stunning success, earning the title of the show of the season and even prompting Karl Lagerfeld to send flowers to Chitose Abe. Just one year later, sacai was included in the official Paris Fashion Week schedule.
#6
First Collaboration with Nike - 2015
In 2015 sacai would announce what would be their most iconic collaboration to date, a seasonal collection with Nike. Chitose Abe reinterprets Nike's heritage sportswear with a feminine, modern touch in an eight-piece collection. Inspired by running, tennis, and American football, the collaboration included pieces like a crewneck sweatshirt, hoodie, dress, and sweatpants, featuring bonded zippers and mesh lace. The most popular piece was a windrunner skirt with plissé-style pleating.
#7
Introducing the handbag collection - 2017
In the spring of 2017 sacai announced its first handbag collection. With most of the designs featuring a combination of straw and leather, or suede and leather, sacai’s handbag collection builds on the brand’s trademark of using a combination of garments.
#8
Second Collaboration with Nike - 2019
Announced officially as a shoe-only collab featuring the "Blazer With The Dunk" design combining the Nike SB Dunk with the Nike Blazer. Yet when the time came for the shoe to go online, a full Nike and sacai sportswear collection was revealed with Naomi Osaka as the face of the campaign, featuring sacai’s trademark silhouettes and mix of fabrics.
#9
The sacai x Nike LDV Waffle - 2019
Part of the previously mentioned collection was a shoe drop that created a legacy on its own. It features the Nike LDV Waffle, a combination of the Nike Daybreak and LDV fusion. The shoe was spotted on celebrities such as Lebron James, A$AP Rocky, Hailey Bieber, and more. The drop instantly sold out and launched sacai into stardom.
#10
Collaboration with Beats by Dre - 2019
In 2019, Beats by Dr. Dre and sacai joined forces to redesign the BeatsX wireless earphones, incorporating customizable beads. The collaboration made its debut at sacai's fall/winter 2019 and pre-fall 2019 shows, effectively introducing sacai to a broader, more mainstream audience, extending beyond the realm of fashion.
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