Hiroki Nakamura - The Visionary Behind visvim

Hiroki Nakamura│picture by Keisuke Fukamizu

Written by Gill Princen

Hiroki Nakamura, the founder and creative force behind the cult Japanese brand visvim, stands tall as a storyteller, an explorer, and a curator of culture. Nakamura’s journey from the snowy landscapes of Alaska to the fashion scenes of Tokyo and Los Angeles has shaped his unique vision, one that blends the traditional with the modern, the East with the West.

Early Inspirations

Born in Kofu, Japan, Nakamura’s early life was marked by a deep curiosity and an adventurous spirit, traits that were fueled by his parents’ lust for travel and exploration. This led him to Alaska, where he spent his teenage years snowboarding and immersing himself in the rugged beauty of the natural world. It was here, amid the vast, untamed wilderness, that Nakamura began to cultivate his appreciation for high-quality, functional apparel—an appreciation that would later become the cornerstone of visvim.

Nakamura’s professional journey began at Burton Snowboards, where he honed his skills as a designer, focusing on high-performance gear that was both functional and durable. However, his love for American workwear, vintage fabrics, and traditional craftsmanship kept pulling him in a different direction. In 2001, this passion resulted in the creation of visvim, a brand that started with footwear and quickly expanded into a full-fledged apparel line.

Hiroki Nakamura during FW24 lookbook shoot│courtesy of visvim

The visvim Philosophy

visvim isn’t a brand you can easily label. Nakamura’s designs are deeply rooted in history, drawing inspiration from vintage Americana, Japanese Edo-period garments, Native American culture, and even the traditional crafts of the Finnish Sami tribe. Yet, these influences are not simply replicated; they are reimagined through Nakamura’s attention to detail.

At the heart of visvim lies Nakamura’s ability to weave these diverse cultural elements into a seamless whole, creating garments and footwear that feel both timeless and forward-thinking. Take the FBT, for instance, one of visvim’s most iconic creations. A moccasin-sneaker hybrid that embodies Nakamura’s design philosophy, inspired by the moccasins worn by Terry Hall of the British band Fun Boy Three. The FBT is both a nod to tradition and a leap forward in footwear design. The shoe’s unique silhouette quickly became a favorite among the fashion-forward peeps, including Kanye West, John Mayer, and A$AP Rocky.

Nakamura’s approach to design is heavily influenced by the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi, which finds beauty in imperfection, impermanence, and the natural aging process. This philosophy is clear in visvim’s use of natural dyes, such as indigo and cochineal, which are bacterium, resulting in garments that are varied and uneven, imbued with a connection to nature.

Nakamura himself has described his process as one of constant exploration, always seeking new materials, techniques, and inspirations to push the boundaries of what is possible in fashion.

Rooted in Japanese Aesthetics

Despite its global reach, visvim remains deeply connected to its Japanese roots. Nakamura splits his time between Tokyo and Los Angeles, drawing inspiration from both the ancient traditions of Japan and the free-spirited culture of California. His Tokyo home, a 220-year-old Edo-period house, serves as both a sanctuary and a source of inspiration, filled with vintage textiles, traditional crafts, and a carefully curated collection of objects from around the world.

visvim’s products are a reflection of Nakamura’s deep respect for craftsmanship and his desire to create items that transcend time. From hand-spun yarns woven on vintage looms to jackets adorned with motifs created by traditional Kyoto artisans, every piece is a testament to Nakamura’s commitment to authenticity.

Hiroki Nakamura│picture by Keisuke Fukamizu

F.I.L. Indigo Camping Trailer Project

One of Hiroki Nakamura’s innovative and personal ventures is the F.I.L. Indigo Camping Trailer project, a conceptual offshoot of visvim that embodies his deep commitment to traditional craftsmanship and experimental design.

This project was born from Nakamura’s desire to create products that possess the “warmth” and “character” found in handcrafted goods, a stark contrast to the mass-produced items that dominate the modern fashion landscape. The Indigo Camping Trailer collection focuses on using natural dyes, particularly “Pure Japanese Indigo” (honai-zome) and traditional “Mud Dyeing” (doro-zome) techniques from Amami Oshima. These methods result in garments that are unique, unpredictable, and rich with the essence of their creation.

The Indigo Camping Trailer project reflects Nakamura’s ongoing exploration of how to integrate traditional techniques with contemporary fashion. The process of creating these products is intentionally unpredictable, with each piece carrying the imprint of its maker’s hands and the natural variations that come from using organic materials.

Indigo Camping Trailer 2024 Capsule Collection│picture by Keisuke Fukamizu

WMV visvim Carmel

Another one of Hiroki Nakamura’s ventures is the opening of WMV visvim Carmel, a store nestled in the charming beach town of Carmel-by-the-Sea in Northern California. With its rustic, old-fashioned shops and commitment to preserving its unique local culture, Carmel immediately captured Nakamura’s heart when he first visited. It’s a place where chain stores are almost nonexistent, replaced instead by small, privately owned businesses—a rarity in today’s America, and a perfect fit for visvim’s ethos.

WMV visvim Carmel, much like Nakamura’s earlier endeavor in Santa Fe, isn’t located in the most convenient or bustling area, but that’s precisely the point. Nakamura is drawn to locations that speak to him personally, places he would want to visit himself. The building housing the new store was once a grocery store, a gathering place for locals, adding another layer of warmth and history to the project.

Hiroki Nakamura and his wife in front of WMV visvim carmel│courtesy of visvim

The Future of visvim

As visvim continues to grow, Nakamura remains focused on staying true to his vision. 

Hiroki Nakamura’s journey from the snow-covered peaks of Alaska to the global fashion stage is a testament to the power of passion, curiosity, and a relentless pursuit of imperfection. Through visvim, he has created a brand that is not just admired but revered, a brand that challenges our perceptions of luxury, quality, and value. And in doing so, he has secured his place as one of the most visionary designers of our time.

In a world where fashion often feels disposable, visvim offers something different—something enduring. It’s a brand that challenges us to think differently about what we wear, why we wear it, and the stories our clothes can tell. And at the heart of it all is Hiroki Nakamura, a visionary who has made it his life’s work to create not just fashion, but lasting, meaningful connections through his craft.

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