Who is Hiroshi Fujiwara - Japan’s Godfather of Streetwear

© Hiroshi Fujiwara

In the world of streetwear, few figures loom as large as Hiroshi Fujiwara, often referred to as the godfather of the movement. With a career spanning decades, Fujiwara has blended music, fashion, and culture, influencing countless artists and designers along the way. His journey began in the tiny streets of Harajuku, where he established a unique voice in both music and fashion, building the foundation of the legendary Ura-Harajuku we know today.

As we navigate through Fujiwara’s story, we uncover the essence of a true cultural visionary whose creative spirit remains as relevant now as it was in his formative years.

Fujiwara’s Early Days

Tiny Panx - The Birth of Japanese Hip-Hop

Fujiwara made his move to Tokyo at the age of 18, a decision that would ignite a passion for music that would define his early career. It’s 1985, and his travels to London exposed him to the raw energy of punk, while New York immersed him in the thriving hip-hop scene. It was here that Fujiwara discovered his love for DJing, quickly becoming an influential figure in Tokyo’s nightlife. Alongside his friends, he formed Tiny Panx.

Tiny Panx, initially known as Tinnie Punx, became a seed for the foundation of Tokyo’s hip hop scene, making waves with their energetic performances, including being the opening act for the Beastie Boys during their first concert in Japan. The group released their debut album, Kensetsuteki, in 1985, blending English and Japanese lyrics in a way that was innovative for the time.

In 1988, Fujiwara expanded his musical ambitions by co-founding the indie label MAJOR FORCE with Toshio Nakanishi and KUDO. This label became a platform for pioneering hip-hop artists in Japan. The creative environment surrounding Tiny Panx allowed Fujiwara to explore not only music but also the interconnected realms of fashion and lifestyle, setting the stage for his later ventures.

Last Orgy Column

While carving out a niche in the music scene, Fujiwara began to express his insights into culture and style through writing. His column Last Orgy, published in the pop-culture magazine Takarajima, became a pivotal outlet for sharing his experiences and observations from his travels in New York, London, Paris, and Los Angeles. The column was a lively collage of street trends, encompassing fashion, skateboarding, and the latest in DJ gear.

Emerging from Fujiwara’s immersion in hip-hop and punk culture, the Last Orgy column featured a blend of commentary that was groundbreaking for Japanese media. Collaborating with fellow creative Kan Takagi, Fujiwara infused the column with a youthful energy that resonated with readers. Ultimately the column served as a cultural bridge, linking Western influences with Japan’s burgeoning street culture.

Among those captivated by Fujiwara’s insights was a young Tomoaki Nagao, later known as NIGO, who idolized Fujiwara’s work and meticulously recorded episodes of Last Orgy. This fascination would eventually lead NIGO to carve his own path in fashion, highlighting Fujiwara’s profound impact on the next generation of streetwear designers.

The International Stüssy Tribe

As the lines between fashion and music began to blur, Fujiwara’s connection with the International Stüssy Tribe became a defining moment in his early career. Through his passion for pop culture, Fujiwara met Shawn Stussy, the brand’s founder, who recognized Fujiwara’s influence in Japan’s street culture. This meeting marked the beginning of a dynamic relationship that would reshape the fashion landscape in Japan.

Stussy invited Fujiwara to become an honorary member of the Worldwide Stüssy Tribe, sending him Stüssy gear that he and his network proudly showcased in Tokyo. This gesture highlighted Fujiwara’s role as a brand ambassador and exemplified the tribe’s ethos— a community of individuals drawn together by their love for style, rebellion, and creative expression.

Shawn Stussy (left), Hiroshi Fujiwara (mid) and Nigo (right)

Fujiwara’s immersion into the Stüssy universe expanded his network, connecting him with a diverse group of creatives that shared a similar vision. Influenced by the lively energy of New York City, Fujiwara recognized that fashion was a reflection of lifestyle and identity.

Building the Foundation of Streetwear

Fujiwara’s Debut - GOODENOUGH

In 1990 marked Fujiwara’s official entry into the fashion and streetwear game with the foundation of his brand GOODENOUGH. The inspiration for his new venture came from Stüssy and Anarchic Adjustment, aiming to create a label that was able to combine the essence of Japanese and American pop culture.

Fujiwara’s keen eye for design and the socio-cultural climate of the time played a big role in shaping the brand. Drawing from a mix of hip-hop, skate, and punk influences, GOODENOUGH’s collections featured striking graphics and quality craftsmanship. These pieces included references to pop culture icons and subversive designs, appealing to a generation eager for self-expression through fashion. Fujiwara’s approach to limited edition drops created a sense of urgency and exclusivity, a strategy that would become a hallmark of successful streetwear brands.

As GOODENOUGH gained traction, it also attracted a loyal following that recognized its artistic integrity. Despite its growing popularity, Fujiwara chose to keep his identity somewhat obscured, allowing the brand to shine on its own merits. He believed that the absence of his name would enable consumers to engage with the clothing more genuinely, without biases associated with celebrity culture.

By the mid-90s, GOODENOUGH was established as a significant player in the Japanese streetwear scene, creating a blueprint for future brands regarding scarcity, desirability, and cultural relevance.

GOODENOUGH Tee, available on GRAILED

NOWHERE - Helming the Next Generation

Three years after founding his first label GOODENOUGH, Fujiwara saw the time right for his two mentees, Jun Takahashi and NIGO, to get behind the wheel of Tokyo’s emerging streetwear scene. He funded the opening of NOWHERE in Ura-harajuku, where NIGO’s BAPE and Takahashi’s UNDERCOVER were first sold. Together, Fujiwara, Nigo, and Takahashi transformed the Harajuku district into a hub of innovative fashion and youth culture.

In no time NOWHERE became a beacon for emerging brands. The store’s name itself was a nod to the Beatles’ song Nowhere Man, symbolizing the spirit of rebellion and exploration that defined the space. Under the roof of NOWHERE, Fujiwara helped nurture the careers of the young designers. The store became the launching pad for many ideas that would dominate Japanese streetwear in the years to come.

NOWHERE’s impact extended beyond mere commerce; it created a community of like-minded individuals who shared a passion for music, fashion, and self-expression. This collective spirit would later become the foundation for the Urahara movement, which would influence streetwear trends worldwide.

The NOWHERE store

AFFA - Fujiwara’s First Collab

The connection between Fujiwara and Takahashi resulted in another, less known, joint venture. As Fujiwara’s first collaboration, he launched AFFA (Anarchy Forever Forever Anarchy), together with Takahashi. The label emerged from their mutual admiration for punk culture but found inspiration in the legendary fashion partnership between Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren. AFFA’s aesthetic drew heavily from 70s punk, incorporating a gritty yet playful design philosophy that appealed to the youth subculture of the 90s.

Unlike GOODENOUGH, which showcased more broadly appealing designs, AFFA was marked by its niche focus. Each piece was handcrafted in limited quantities, highlighting the rarity and exclusivity that defined the brand. The duo’s shared vision allowed them to reinterpret punk elements through a contemporary lens, creating garments that resonated with their artistic values while also maintaining a sense of rebellion.

Despite its critical acclaim and the strong following it garnered, AFFA struggled to achieve mainstream success. The brand’s identity was so tightly woven with the underground culture that it never sought the widespread commercial appeal seen in larger labels. Eventually, both designers decided to focus on their individual brands—Fujiwara with GOODENOUGH and Takahashi with UNDERCOVER.

Hiroshi Fujiwara & Jun Takahashi

Founding fragment design

After having a good run with AFFA, Fujiwara was again giving shape to his next venture, which emerged in 2003 as fragment design. The label was conceptualized as a multifaceted entity that served not only as a brand but also as a design agency and consultancy. A unique position which allowed Fujiwara to work intimately with brands to produce a wide array of products, from fashion to lifestyle goods. The flexibility of fragment design meant that it could adapt to the evolving landscape of streetwear and pop culture, making it an influential player in the industry. The result? Fujiwara’s golden era of collaboration had arrived.

The Collaboration Era

While the launch of AFFA marked Fujiwara’s first formal collaboration, it also laid the groundwork for his future partnerships across the fashion industry. Fujiwara’s collaborative spirit, honed through his experiences with GOODENOUGH, NOWHERE, and ultimately, fragment design, would become a defining characteristic of his career. His knack for merging disparate cultural elements into cohesive and innovative designs became a template for future collaborations.

GOODENOUGH x Supreme 2000

In 2000, Fujiwara teamed up with Supreme to release a t-shirt collection that blended the aesthetics of both brands, remaining one of GOODENOUGH’s most influential collabs to this day.

Nike - 2002

Fujiwara’s long line of collaborations with Nike began in the early 2000s, where he played a significant role in the development of the HTM line (Hiroshi, Tinker, Mark), named after Fujiwara, Tinker Hatfield, and Mark Parker. One standout release was the Nike Air Presto. The HTM series was a revolutionary milestone that majorly influenced sneaker culture.

Levi’s x fragment design Fenom - 2006

In 2006, Fujiwara collaborated with Levi’s on the Fenom line, a collection of jeans that redefined denim through unique cuts and treatments. The Fenom line was characterized by its innovative designs, featuring premium materials and artistic details that blended street culture with high fashion. 

Levi’s x fragment design

Converse x fragment design - 2010

2010 saw the collaboration between Fujiwara and Converse. The Converse Chuck Taylor OX All Star was reimagined into a minimalist, monochromatic design. The result was a nod to the classic American sneaker while infusing it with Fujiwara’s minimalist aesthetic.

Nike x fragment design x - 2014

Adding to Fujiwara’s collaboration streak with world’s most iconic sports brand, is the collab between fragment design and Nike to create the Air Jordan 1 and Air Trainer 1. The Air Jordan 1 featured a clean black-and-white design with minimalist branding, while the Air Trainer 1 showcased an innovative split colorway. These designs were both an immense commercial success and highly coveted among collectors.

Air Jordan 1│© thesolesupplier

Louis Vuitton - 2016

In 2016, Fujiwara and Kim Jones combined their creative minds to create a capsule collection for Louis Vuitton’s FW17 collection. The collection featured designs heavily inspired by pop artists like Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Harring.

Moncler x fragment design - 2020

Fujiwara partnered with luxury outerwear brand Moncler in 2020 to create another capsule collection that combined high fashion with streetwear aesthetics. The collection featured stylish and functional outerwear pieces, part of Moncler’s “Genius” project, which aimed to bring together various designers to create unique interpretations of the brand’s signature styles.

This is just a selected grasp out of Hiroshi Fujiwara’s immense and neverending roster of collaborations with fashion giants such as Nike, Supreme, Moncler, Levi’s, and more. These collaborations have been shaping the landscape of streetwear for years on end, laying the groundwork for the modern streetwear movement.

The Continuing Legacy of Hiroshi Fujiwara

Today Hiroshi Fujiwara’s influence remains as relevant as ever. As one of the number one tastemakers in the streetwear scene, his primary label fragment design announces one groundbreaking collaboration after the other. We’re talking a ratio of one collab each month. At. Least.

The creative output of those collaborations have long transcended the borders of fashion, with a mix of lifestyle items, furniture, and even toys. In August and September of 2024 alone, fragment design shared the plans for a Tamagochi, a mahjong table, Stanley cups, and another collaboration with Nike.

Fujiwara’s journey from the streets of Harajuku to the global stage of fashion has earned him the title of the godfather of streetwear, a title he continues to defend by redefining the intersection of music, fashion, and lifestyle, shaping the landscape of street culture not just in Japan, but worldwide. His ability to weave together disparate influences—from hip-hop to punk, and from high fashion to everyday wear—has created a unique aesthetic that resonates with a generation eager for authenticity and self-expression.

What ultimately charms Japan’s most influential cultural trendsetter beyond any of his accomplishments, is his mindset. In a 2017 interview with Jeff Staple, when asked whether he does a collaboration for the brand, the culture, or the sales, Fujiwara answers without hesitation: ‘No, it’s for me. I want to wear it.” And with one sentence, Hiroshi Fujiwara declared the true spirit of a cultural visionary.

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